Growing Tips

PLANTING THE TREE
Trees commonly exhibit what is known as transplant shock. Transplant shock is indicated by slow growth and reduced vigor following transplant. Proper site preparation before and during planting coupled with good follow-up care reduces the amount of time the plan experiences transplant shock and allows the tree to quickly establish in its new location. Carefully follow eight simple steps, and you can significantly reduce the stress placed on the plant at the time of planting.
1. Dig a bowl-shaped hole, 12 inches wider than the root ball.

2. Plant root ball 4 inches higher than surround- ing grade. In sandy soil, plant the tree at ground level. Leave the wire basket, bur lap and sisal rope in place. Burlap and string will decompose and the wire will not interfere with its growth.

3. Backfill with soil originally from the hole, adding very little topsoil or triple mix. Be certain to pack tightly to remove air pockets.

4. Cut any rope away that circles the tree trunk.Leave remaining rope in place.

5. Add 4-6 inches of mulch to top of root ball, but not right up against the trunk.

6. Water thoroughly. Mix and apply water soluble transplant fertilizer (eg. Miracle-Gro) around the edge of the hole.

7. Double stake the tree with metal t-bars or 2x2 wooden stakes for 1 full year.

8. Remove broken or damaged branches only; otherwise do not prune at planting time.

CARE AFTER PLANTING
1. Water newly planted trees about once a week if it does not rain. 1/2 with a sprinkler is ideal. Water trees slowly, but deeply. Continue to water until the ground freezes in winter.

2. Fertilize trees and shrubs regularly. Use water-soluble fertilizer, once a month, from April to mid-August.

3. Look at your and become aware of healthy and non-health symptoms. For professional tree care or advice feel free to contact us at Spring Tree Farm.

WATERING
Large trees
5-10 gallons of water once or twice a week, applied to soil dish around root ball from May to September. 5-10 gallons of water once a month for October and November. For the second growing season, 5-10 gallons of water once or twice a month from May to September.

Potted plant material
1 gallon each 1 to 3 times a week, depending on the weather, from May to September. Shrub beds covered with mulch require significantly less water. For the second growing season, 1 gallon of water once or twice a month from May to September.

Whenever possible, water in the morning or evening to reduce moisture loss through evaporation.

Late fall watering is an important step in ensuring that plants have the best chance for winter survival. "Watering-in" as it is called, prevents roots from being damaged in cold, dry soil. It also minimizes winter browning.

FERTILIZING
Backfill with enriched soil, such as Bonemeal, peat moss, compost, or transplant fertilizer. Fertilize once a month from spring to early August. Stop fertilizing after that point to allow growth to slow down in preparation for winter.

Fertilizer spikes may be used after that point. These slow release spikes will begin dissolving in the spring and benefit the new growth.

MULCHING
An organic mulch helps the soil to retain moisture and also chokes out moisture robbing weeds.

STAKING
Staking trees is generally not recommended. But, if you have it in a windy location. Place one stake on the windward side of the tree & one stake on the opposite side. Drive each stake 18-24 inches deep into undisturbed soil along the outside edge of the prepared planting area and not right next to the tree.

Tie strings or cables to each stake & loosely secure them to the trunk. About 3-4 feet from ground level. The tie should allow some freedom of movement and it must be covered in soft material when it contacts the trunk. Staked should be removed one full year after planting.